Ann Marie’s Istanbul

THE SCARF: FREEDOM OR OPPRESSION?

When I walk the streets of Istanbul, there are always women in scarves. In more traditional communities it’s a majority, while in more modern, upscale communities, it’s less common. Older women are generally scarved, and younger women less often.

A lovely Muslim “Princess”

On rare occasions I’ll see two women, arm in arm, one scarved and one with tresses flowing free. It makes no difference to their friendship, though I find it a startling contrast.

Ceramic artists in Iznik, Turkey

I’ve tried to accept this part of Islamic culture, and I’ve come close, though I still struggle with the unfairness of women being covered when men aren’t.

A book entitled Nine Parts of Desire: The Hidden World of Islamic Women, by Geraldine Brooks, enlightened me somewhat on the topic. Apparently the theory (Islamic) is that women are incredibly sensuous beings; Allah granted them 9 parts of desire, giving men only one. Therefore, women have to cover themselves in order to keep the world from descending into chaos (of a sensual nature).

Since the establishment of the Turkish Republic in 1923, it has been unlawful for women to wear scarves in public buildings, including schools. Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, Turkey’s revered founder, was adamant that Turkey be a secular state even though its predominant religion was Islam. That is still true in this country, which is 99% Muslim. Turks take great pride in their secular government, a model of democracy in an Islamic world.

Sweethearts in Antalya, Turkey

Before I moved to Turkey I read Orhan Pamuk’s book, Snow, a fictional response to the issue of scarves and education. In this novel, a journalist travels to Kars (“snow” in Turkish), a city in Eastern Turkey, to investigate the story of girls whose religious convictions to wear scarves has driven them to suicide because of being denied access to education. Pamuk’s approach is a critical one, though illuminating in its understanding of the issues faced by these young women. It opened my eyes to the passion many of these girls feel about covering their heads.

Scarved women of all ages in Göreme, Cappadocia, Turkey

Well, the deed is done, as you probably know. Amid great turmoil, Turkey has passed legislation allowing women to wear scarves in universities, as long as their faces aren’t covered. There are two sides to this issue, and both make sense.

Proponents of the ruling insist that it’s a move toward freedom for all and access to education for women, not a step towards an Islamic state. That works for me. In America many girls attend school scarved. (Of course, America isn’t a neighbor to a country that requires head-covering.)

Opponents feel that this is just one of many moves toward breaking down Turkey’s secular government, that it’s like a “test case” to amending the constitution away from secularism. They also view the headscarf as a symbol of political Islam. So who’s right?

A young kilim-weaver in Cappadocia

I discussed this issue with a few university women, and they find it upsetting. They see both sides, yet feel threatened by the acceptance of scarves in their educational environment. “I worry that the pressure will be on me to take the scarf, or maybe on my daughter. We have a name for that social pressure in Turkey; it’s a lot like peer pressure, and it’s strong in our culture. I don’t want my country to go that way, but what can I do to prevent it?” one of them said.

A teacher friend shared that she’s unhappy with the ruling as well, although only a few of her university students appeared in scarves this week. She’s a liberal-minded woman, like many educators, and she feels the classroom isn’t the place for religious posturing. She commented, “This issue takes attention away from our country’s real problems: a shaky economy, lack of education, and ‘ugly’ world policies.” She’s not alone in this view. Many people have expressed a concern that much broader issues plague Turkey, and this issue has just been a governmental smokescreen to avoid tackling them.

Worshippers in the traditional community of Eyüp

Though many people feel that the wearing of scarves is on the rise, a survey of women across Turkey in 2006 showed a decline in scarf wearing. In 1999, 73% of Turkish women wore a headscarf, while in 2006 the percentage had declined to 63%.* It is true, though, that many families choose to keep their daughters out of school once they reach puberty. Turkey has sponsored many programs to promote the continued education of girls, with limited success.

I’m sure the CHP (secularist party) will bring this decision to an appeals court on the grounds that it’s unconstitutional, and no one knows where that will go. The Turkish military, which is charged with the responsibility of upholding the constitution and the secular state, doesn’t look kindly on this action either. It remains to be seen, though, whether they will intervene. It looks for now like things are settling.

Two generations of scarf fashion in Cappadocia

In the Best of All Possible Worlds, this would be a positive step. The problem, though, is mistrust and unspoken agendas. Time will tell, I guess. Until then, women will be free to wear scarves in Turkey’s universities.

*The survey was conducted by the Turkish Economic and Social Studies Foundation (TESEV)

I’ve lived in Turkey nearly two years now, and I wonder if my view of the world has changed. I wonder, too, if I’ve changed. Scary!

I’ve had a great time here, filled with incredible experiences. I’ve toured countless mosques, learned to speak some Turkish, met some fascinating people, visited places along the three seas surrounding Turkey (and beyond), as well as having opened my eyes and heart to this culture. Lucky me.

Many of my Turkish friends have commented that these weekly missives have opened their eyes as well. They’ve revisited Turkey through the eyes of a yabanci (foreigner). They’ve been forced to scrutinize their world a bit more carefully, and also to notice the precious details they take for granted: the call to prayer, the sparkling Bosporus, the sun setting over distant hills, the occasional Christian church, the bustle of a street market, even a beggar along Istaklal.

I’ve had an opportunity to view America through different eyes as well. I’ve listened to student presentations about media’s negative influence in their lives and others about the exploitation of third world workers by U.S. corporations. I’ve heard countless diatribes (from both students and adults) against the War in Iraq. I visited an antiwar rally/tent in Kadikoy. I’ve been asked repeatedly, “What do you think of Bush?” and been treated warmly when I responded “Not much.” I’ve worried about the impression America has made on the rest of the world, and it isn’t pretty. I’m afraid the days of Americans basking in admiration may be behind us.

Just this week I listened to a public radio podcast, “Death to America.” It’s part of a program called The Changing World, and in the May 30th program (available online at pri.org), host Michael Goldfarb deals specifically with Turkey. His presentation is a bit unsettling, albeit true. America is not greatly loved on this side of the Atlantic (an understatement).

According to a survey by the Pew Memorial Trust, in 2000 over half of the people in Turkey reported a favorable view of America. A recent poll shows that figure has fallen to 12%. It’s not only Turkey; only 37% of Germans report a positive view of America, and 23% of Spaniards. In fact, only two of the countries surveyed had over 60% of their population reporting a positive regard for America: Japan and Nigeria. Very disturbing.

This disenchantment is not only about the war; it’s also about broken promises, hidden agendas, and exploitation. People have lost faith that America is an honest nation that acts according to honest values. Hmmm…

There’s a strong contingent of fundamentalist Muslims who hate America and would love to see it destroyed. That was made more than clear in the podcast. A Turkish journalist said, “No one in the Middle East, including Turkey, believes America has good intentions.” The faith in American values has been replaced by skepticism, fear, and hatred. Turkish students no longer clamor to attend American colleges; many feel unwelcome, and even fearful. What a sad commentary.

One of my readers back home sent me a very disturbing e-mail expressing the exact reverse view: he feels that Islam is the scourge of the world and wants to see the Muslim world destroyed. It’s painful to see this fundamentalist hatred on either side. Many people perceive recent global conflicts as a religious war between the Christian and Islamic worlds. Others perceive recent American actions as imperialism. This extremism is disturbing, though I’ve seen little of it personally.

I have to admit, in spite of anti-American sentiments over here, my experience  has been positive. I feel safer here than I do at home. People have been both warm and friendly, probably because as people we deal with each other as individuals, not as representatives of a country or a faith. It’s not me that the Turks dislike, it’s my government, its war, and its aggressive capitalism. I get that. They don’t hold it against me, though they often ask me why it’s happened. I wish I could explain, but I can’t.

What I do know is that everyone—all across the globe—needs to work on humility, tolerance, and benevolence. Isn’t that what both Christ and Muhammed  taught us? Somehow those crucial lessons have been lost in the shuffle—in the struggle.

It will take years for America to rebuild the trust that other countries once had in us. I hope it’s not too late.